Well, here I am at JFK again, about to embark on an even bigger adventure than last year. Currently trying to prepare myself for the flight– 21 hours of flying time! But I just had a pretty darn good breakfast burrito. Things are looking up.
Im writing this at 6:30 am because theres an insane level of noise outside due to the fact that Spain won their semifinal against Germany last night. It may have been their best game all cup, and they earned it a million times over. So how do young Spanish men celebrate such a great victory? Apparently by running around in packs of 20 kicking over all the trash cans and harassing cars and buses in the middle of the Madrid equivalent of 7th ave. God help us if Spain wins on Sunday- I’m pretty sure the city will explode.
This early morning disturbance is probably good prep for San Fermin weekend in Pamplona– aka, Running of the Bulls. The run is held every morning at 8 am, but the rest of the weekend is, for lack of a better word, a shitshow. Packed like Times Sq on New Years, bars like St. Patricks day, spirit like Mardi Gras, and no open container laws. People party until the bull run, and sleep later. It’s the biggest festival here in Spain. I probably won’t take a lot of pictures since I don’t want to risk iPhone damage and things tend to get stolen there, but there’s an awesome official festival website (English option in the top nav). Don’t worry though, I’m going with a bunch of friends and I think running is the stupidest idea ever, so I’ll be okay. I’ll make sure and touch base just so you know though!
Viva la roja!!!
So I’m on the third 5 hour train in a week, returning from San Sebastian. Where to even begin with this city? At some point last night while walking along the ocean, we decided it’s a collision of 5 things that come together to make San Seb so incredible, in general (aka, not influenced by the great company I had both weekends):
1. The beaches
2. Old european city vibe
3. Use of public space
4. Mountain backdrop
5. Small town vibe
It’s a walkable city, with beaches stretched out on either side of the old town area of bars and restaurants and shops for a mile or so in both directions. And the people use the beaches, even on a nice Monday they’re packed with people on siesta.
People live outside. They congregate, they demonstrate, they protest, they eat, they walk and run and surf. They let their kids run around naked on the beaches. They follow marching bands in the street and dance and sing with them. People lean out their windows and talk to their neighbors across the street. It’s a standing wave of a city- it has a constant energy swirling around it, but manages to be incredible calm inside that power.
There’s also a very relaxed, anything goes vibe.
Today, we saw a naked kid with a mullet holding a rather large dead fish in the air and hitting it with a stick while his mother just watched. Yep. Anything goes. And this is what I ate yesterday: scrambled eggs, gelato, mussels, and french fries smothered in 5 different sauces. But each was the best I’ve ever had.
When the weathers good it’s an unbelievable city, but I had a great time on the cloudy days as well. There’s a lot to see, and a lot to eat.
And finally, there’s the company. I met only great people here. I can imagine it’d be pretty crowded late July and august but now it’s beautiful and full of happy travellers, lots of Aussies and Kiwis. And the best part was the hostel we stayed in- even though they were a bit overwhelmed with preparing for the festival and vacation season, they were awesome and friendly and as fun and nice at 10 am as at 4 am.
And finally, my new friends, who made the weekends just beyond awesome (plus my classmate the second weekend!) Los amigos: Cassie, a spanish teacher in New Orleans and Justino, an Australian guy- they are the type of people with who I could be entirely myself and not once feel self conscious. – we’re meeting up again next weekend in Pamplona and will hopefully have some US adventures in the fall!
Only unfortunate thing in the city is the mullet trend. I’m not even joking when I say that 15% of the population (1-50) has a mullet.
I know this is long and rambling but I have a hard time putting into words some of the happiest days of my 22 years. Smiles all around.
Love,
Jordan
So I’m going to run Richmond Marathon in November with Team Jordan (Mom, sign me up right now, because I know you probably forgot) and I’m currently working on building up my base mileage and base long run for the first time in a lonnnnng time. It’s training time.
Day 1 was uneventful.
Day 2, however, which is still in progress sort of, as I’m stretching while typing, was a slaughter of my legs and lungs by Mike and Madrid. (Mike is my friend from the States that lives here and runs really fast. Madrid is the desert in which I live). It’s 95 degrees and drier than any South Carolinian could fathom. So dry, in fact, that my tank top and shorts, which were damp and cold from the washer when I left the house, were dry by the time I reached the park 1/2 mile later. Oof. And to make matters worse, I had a tinto de verano (wine and lemon soda- soooo good) during the soccer game, because seriously, you can’t watch a game like that at a bar without drinking. And so, when I saw Mike, practically bouncing while waiting for me, I knew I was in for a hell of a run. And hellish it was- 5 miles at a pace averaging 7 min/mile. My legs haven’t been that tired in ages.
Let me get to the point of this post. The best part about running in Madrid in 95 degree heat is the eye candy. These Spanish men know how to run: in short shorts, no tshirts, and in packs of 3. ow ow ow.
Portugal pictures coming as soon as I feel like wasting more time and not studying for my Spanish test tomorrow morning.
I´m about to go watch Spain´s first game in the World Cup at a bar near my house. There´s a huge television screen set up at the Real Madrid stadium as well, which is right by school, but since it´s only 60 degrees, I´m going to go watch it inside and wait for a warmer day to watch outside. I can´t wait to see the fans, I´ll take lots of pictures, etc.
Every now and then something happens to remind us that there’s a god, in whatever way we concieve of one. This weekend was a continuous string of those reminders. Beautiful landscapes, serenity, peace, and luck.
And now that I’m riding through this incredible incredible country, watching misty mountains change shades of purple in the rain, I can’t believe in anything besides creation, and not just that, but right now it feels as if I’m unwrapping a present and my God is saying: look what I have made for you!! Look at my great work! Add to that the beautiful song “let it be me” by Ray LaMontagne.. I wish each one of you could feel the joy I feel right now.
Love,
Jordan
How many times in my life can I go climbing to start off the day? Not many, which is why this morning, when I realized I had no desire to rush through breakfast to make the 9 am bus to the beach, I decided to drink a few extra cups of coffee, relax, and then walk over to the crag. I did precisely that. I climbed around for half an hour or so until a big group of people came along and I figured I´d let them have the wall. But the important part was the feeling of starting the day by exposing my body to the sun and the rock, and the invigoration and easy meditation of climbing, rather than rushing or crowding onto a subway or any of those city things. This weekend I´m re-realizing how much I love connecting my body to the natural world, by running or climbing or even just sitting. I´m just so happy. (Even though my legs are a little angry at me for the strenuous run yesterday)
And now, I´m off to buy some bread and go to the beach. The picnic the cook at the albergue prepared for me is some sort of oily fish bocadillo, and a candy bar and a brown banana, and some cherries. I plan to eat it on the beach in the sunshine. Have I mentioned that it´s raining everywhere else in Spain (except Barcelona, I believe)?
I also find it necessary to point out that I´m in shock at the stupidity of politics in SC once again:
http://www.nytimes.com/2010/06/12/us/politics/12greene.html?hp
SERIOUSLY?! How does that happen? (Barron, feel free to leave a long explanation, because I don´t understand at all)
today was, without a doubt, the perfect day.
I woke up early, I made some good, strong, smooth coffee.
(I slammed my finger in a door and it bled for an hour, that wasn´t great, but it happened too. I´m calling it a sacrifice to the gods of luck).
I got to the train station on time, didn´t miss a train, had a good seat.
I watched the sunlight grow in the countryside around Madrid underneath persistent, moody clouds and wind.
When I arrived in Murcia, an off-duty bus driver who spoke perfect English changed money for me out of his wallet, and walked me to the right bus station.
The albergue I´m staying at is in a state park, and it´s only a 10-min walk to town, so I walked from the bus, plopped my stuff down and went for a hike. I brought my shoes, found a (bolted, beautiful) crag along the way and traversed along the bottom for 30 minutes or so on my lunch break.
Then I showered and napped and when I woke up, it was 7 oclock, only 70 degrees or so, and I went for a run… I told myself just to run 20 minutes up, and then I could turn around, but I ended up running (and walking) all the way to the highest point in the park, and it was an incredible feeling and view.
I can´t put pictures up on this computer, or use facebook, but as soon as I get home I´ll do so, because this place is beautiful and magical and I´m so happy that I made the journey out here.
Jordan
Google is great because it always me to:
1) find the best way to get from a train station to a bus station
2) get hostel directions and locations
3) translate super spanish into english
4) find the best beach to visit by cruising photographs on googlemaps!
So, I’m going to Bolnuevo on Saturday, which is a 2 hour bus ride from my hostel. But this is what Bolnuevo looks like:
la ciudad encantada
La playa
My future estate.
And then I’m going hiking on Friday and Sunday, here:
And maybe even a bit of rockclimbing if I can find it.
So excited! Now I need to pack!!
