So I’m on the third 5 hour train in a week, returning from San Sebastian. Where to even begin with this city? At some point last night while walking along the ocean, we decided it’s a collision of 5 things that come together to make San Seb so incredible, in general (aka, not influenced by the great company I had both weekends):
1. The beaches
2. Old european city vibe
3. Use of public space
4. Mountain backdrop
5. Small town vibe
It’s a walkable city, with beaches stretched out on either side of the old town area of bars and restaurants and shops for a mile or so in both directions. And the people use the beaches, even on a nice Monday they’re packed with people on siesta.
People live outside. They congregate, they demonstrate, they protest, they eat, they walk and run and surf. They let their kids run around naked on the beaches. They follow marching bands in the street and dance and sing with them. People lean out their windows and talk to their neighbors across the street. It’s a standing wave of a city- it has a constant energy swirling around it, but manages to be incredible calm inside that power.
There’s also a very relaxed, anything goes vibe.
Today, we saw a naked kid with a mullet holding a rather large dead fish in the air and hitting it with a stick while his mother just watched. Yep. Anything goes. And this is what I ate yesterday: scrambled eggs, gelato, mussels, and french fries smothered in 5 different sauces. But each was the best I’ve ever had.
When the weathers good it’s an unbelievable city, but I had a great time on the cloudy days as well. There’s a lot to see, and a lot to eat.
And finally, there’s the company. I met only great people here. I can imagine it’d be pretty crowded late July and august but now it’s beautiful and full of happy travellers, lots of Aussies and Kiwis. And the best part was the hostel we stayed in- even though they were a bit overwhelmed with preparing for the festival and vacation season, they were awesome and friendly and as fun and nice at 10 am as at 4 am.
And finally, my new friends, who made the weekends just beyond awesome (plus my classmate the second weekend!) Los amigos: Cassie, a spanish teacher in New Orleans and Justino, an Australian guy- they are the type of people with who I could be entirely myself and not once feel self conscious. – we’re meeting up again next weekend in Pamplona and will hopefully have some US adventures in the fall!
Only unfortunate thing in the city is the mullet trend. I’m not even joking when I say that 15% of the population (1-50) has a mullet.
I know this is long and rambling but I have a hard time putting into words some of the happiest days of my 22 years. Smiles all around.
Love,
Jordan
